Adding a dash of excitement and freshness to deliciously familiar dishes, Okku spices up the culinary scene with a brand new menu.

An inevitable, not to mention welcome, side effect of Dubai’s ever-shifting culinary scene is the constant striving to out-do the competition. Okku, one of the UAE’s leading Japanese restaurants, commands a sophisticated clientele thanks to its luxurious, tasteful surroundings and excellent food, but is not content to rest on its laurels. Considering that much discussion in food circles concerns the relative merits of Okku and its contemporaries, it’s not surprising that the launch of a new menu is a significant step for the brand, and gives them a chance to avoid the like-for-like comparisons that many critics use as a means to benchmark. Okku’s new dishes make one thing abundantly clear. The quality of the food remains the same, with both contrasting and complimentary flavours mixed expertly on the plate, but there’s a raft of fresh, new choices, several of which are subtle twists on existing favourites. For example, the black cod tempura takes a dish, which has become something of a local celebrity, and adds an exciting new flourish. The tender, delicate fish is now encased in a cocoon of crisp batter, with the sweet miso served on the side. The textures add a new depth to the now-familiar flavours, and make it clear that the brains in Okku’s kitchen are not afraid to mix things up a bit. Those for whom fish is not such a draw should opt for the wagyu beef gyoza, which are wholesome without being heavy – as is often the case with dumplings – and are packed with flavour.

The selection of new mains is extensive and includes several highlights. The Toromi Chicken is light and moist, though it’s worth asking for an extra serving of the sweet, thick sauce it’s cooked in. Zingy but not cloying, the perfectly grilled morsels are even served in a bowl-fashioned from a leaf. The Dynamite Hotate is similarly theatrical. A towering mound of California Maki rolls and baked crab, the warm dish looks almost too good to spoil by digging in. The delicately rolled rice and velvety crab make for an ideal partnership, with a splash of soy adding just the right level of saltiness to proceedings.

Though dessert may seem like an indulgence too far, saving a bit of space should be a top priority, especially given the sublime nature of the banana and chocolate crepe. A seemingly simple dish, the pudding dazzles with its banana flavour, soft crepe and sumptuous chocolate layers, while the sheer artistry of the dessert is deserving of at least a mention. It’s an ideal end to a dining experience that walks a fine line. The quality of Okku’s cuisine is a familiar, comforting presence, but the innovation in the new menu promises excitement and new flavours that might just be the thing to push Okku ahead of its competition.

Where: The Monarch Dubai

T: 04 501 8777

By FYI Staff

August 2010